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May 4tH, 2021

Our inspirations from week four of the New BBC2 show ‘All that glitters’.

This week saw the introduction of gold as material of choice. The contestants had to create an elegant pair of hoop earrings, along with a sentimental locket for a bespoke client.
May 4th, 2021

Our inspirations from week four of the New BBC2 show ‘All that glitters’.

This week saw the introduction of gold as material of choice. The contestants had to create an elegant pair of hoop earrings, along with a sentimental locket for a bespoke client.
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14th century — France, silver-gilt, Basse taille enamel — This pendant once contained a small disk of wax, blessed by the pope during the Easter season and worn as a kind of amulet. The back shows a lamb, a symbol of Jesus, surrounded by a religious inscription. Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
16th century — England, gold, enamel — The Heneage Jewel is magnificent locket decorated with a portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, which was gifted to one of her loyal courtiers in recognition of his devotion to the crown. The painting is by Nicholas Hillard, one for the greatest artists of the Elizabethan era and the goldsmithing would have been carried out by master jewellers of the day. Image © Victoria and Albert Museum.
17th century — India, gold, ruby, turquoise — The cap of this locket pendant takes the form of a makara - a fantastical aquatic beast from Hindu mythology. Traces of a red residue suggest that the pendant may have been filled with an aromatic substance. Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
18th century — Italy, gold, shell — A young male is depicted in this exquisite cameo locket, while the reverse reveals a small lock of hair, possibly belonging to the boy. This ancient jewellery technique had a resurgence of popularity during the eighteenth century thanks to a renewed interest in civilisations of antiquity.
19th century — England, gold, glass — Mourning jewellery, commemorating a deceased family member or friend, was commonly commissioned by Victorians. This mourning locket features a lock of hair beneath a crystal face, next to a portrait of the lady it belonged to. Image © Victoria and Albert Museum.

Lockets - the sentimental jewel

Throughout the ages lockets have most commonly taken the form of a pendant, shaped as a small ornamental case which can open and close to reveal a sentimental item such as a photograph or miniature painting. However the concept is thought to have evolved from amulets in ancient times, that might have served as cases for medicines or even poisons.

In the Victorian era lockets were often filled with the hair of a lost loved one and served as important sentimental jewels that marked the passages of life, while also helping to keep their memory alive.

Bespoke – Memoirs

During his traditional goldsmith training Shaun restored countless memorial jewels dating from the 18th century onwards. Memoirs is the combination of this experience married with the House’s award-winning bespoke process.

This fine jewellery collection Injects modernism with an all-important element of romance and mystery. A hidden message or lock of hair from a loved one becomes the heart of the jewel itself, as a gift of love, token of remembrance, of friendship or commitment.
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Thorned Heart pendant — Gold, enamel, glass, silk
Thorned Heart pendant — White gold, diamonds, enamel, glass, silk
Memoirs pendant — Gold, diamonds, glass
Messenger pendants — Gold, diamonds, enamel
Sovereign pendant — antique gold sovereign coin, gold, diamonds, enamel
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WHAT SHAUN WORE SEE FULL COLLECTION HERE
DISCOVER OUR HOOP EARRINGS
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Solitaire ring — 2009 — Gold, 7ct cognac diamond, black diamonds
Poison ring — 2005 — White gold, diamonds
Luna ring — 2009 — White gold, rubies, carved rhodolite
Tribal deco ring — 2008 — White gold, black diamonds, white diamonds, tsavorites, cabochon hematite & quartz
Tusk ring — 2019 — Gold, black diamonds, ceramic

Bespoke — Cocktail rings

The origins of the cocktail ring can be traced back to 1920s Prohibition era America, when women’s rights changed dramatically with freedom of expression being celebrated. These oversized rings are the epitome of over-the-top glamour and are designed and worn to attracted attention.

The Shaun Leane bespoke archive includes many examples - from the impressive Luna rings, generously set with large hand cut gemstones, to the Poison Heart and ceramic Tusk rings with ingenious hidden compartments. Each of these designs are sure to create a powerful statement wherever they are worn.
“I believe an eternal memory, homed in a timeless jewel makes the perfect memoir”
SHAUN LEANE
DISCOVER OUR GOLD
One of the oldest metals used by man, gold is highly prized and arguably the most precious of materials. This noble metal can be worked much thinner than silver, without losing any of its integral strength. This allows our goldsmiths to work to an even higher level of refinement and precision.
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