From the early days of his apprenticeship at EHJ in Hatton Garden restoring Victorian & Art Deco jewellery, to his collaborative work with Alexander McQueen, enabling him to break his own rules and trailblaze an individual style of modern romance, Shaun Leane’s imagination shaped a unique view of the world.
His vision has always been the same: to challenge modern perceptions of jewellery. Here we 'show & tell' some of the High Points that define the House
In Paris, France, October 2008, Boucheron celebrated 150 years with an iconic necklace; designed by Shaun Leane, who was hand-picked to bring his futuristic vision to Boucheron’s hallowed workrooms.
Queen of the Night draws inspiration from place Vendome itself; and the reclusive Countess de Castiglione, whose dark beauty emerged only at night, to walk the streets of Paris under a cloud of shadows, reeling from a social scandal. Her great extravagance is reflected in Leane’s extraordinary neckpiece of magnificent beauty and technical virtuosity.
The Queen of the Night wraps around the neck, open-ended, asymmetric, alive with flowers silhouetted in blackened gold; pavé-set on the outside with blue sapphires and inside with white diamonds. Scattered leaves of copper coloured diamonds enclose bejewelled flowers; underneath each, a secret push-button to open and close each bud manually. Open, the flowers reveal glistening rubies – and the legendary passions of the femme fatale. Closed, the piece takes on the whispered allusion of the countess – beautiful but reclusive. Thorny diamond stems nestle a striking pear-shaped lilac 15 carat sapphire; detachable, it can be worn as a pendant. Queen of the Night contains many such hidden details; Taking Boucheron’s artisans 1,600 hours to complete, it is a tour de force of imagination and hand-craftsmanship.
The Spine Corset is one of the most memorable of Shaun Leane’s collaborations with McQueen, created for SS’98 'Untitled' show. The aluminium ‘Spine’ corset mimicked the spine’s silhouette and armoured the body with a mischievous, even intimidating aesthetic.
Constructing a life-sized vertebrae meant meticulous focus to detail, and Leane used a human skeleton to cast the corset, crafting each bone by hand. It was a landmark of what was to come in scale and material; challenging Leane, the artist, in a paradigm shift from goldsmith to silversmith. This meant bigger tools, larger moulds, even bigger waxes.
It was the beginning of Leane’s visionary pieces, and a period of enormous growth for both Leane and McQueen. The joining of two artisans from different disciplines, pushing each other through their use of materials. The Spine Corset draws on the historical traditions of memento mori, in which skeletons are integrated into jewellery and worn garments to reflect the wearer’s own mortality.
As a solid exoskeleton comprised of hand-forged aluminium rods, Shaun Leane’s Coil Corset is surprisingly soft and curvaceous; a tenderness which belies the rigidity of the metalwork. Each moulded rod holds a different light refraction, subtly guiding the eye across its frame to emphasise the feminine form. In conversation with McQueen, Leane felt challenged to create a piece that covered not just the neck, but the entire torso, down to the hips - a whole-body adornment; to exceed his own expectations. For 16 weeks Leane lived in his workroom, moulding, bolting before it debuted at 'The Overlook' AW’99 catwalk show.
The Coil Corset is the only work from the archive to be signed by both artists. Their accumulative creativity depended on the felt tension between darkness and the light; the heft of the material, and the softness of the model’s silhouette; between combat and self-protection, in the brass coils of the women of the Kayan Lahwi tribe.
The bespoke experience began with a detailed and personal consultation with the groom. Consequently, the design is filled with personal and sentimental signifiers for the couple and unique to them, an approach that is synonymous with Shaun Leane’s bespoke service.
‘I am so honoured Edoardo chose to work with me to design the engagement ring for Princess Beatrice and to have been involved in this special moment in their lives. The bespoke experience was a beautiful journey; from imagining the design with Edoardo to the crafting of the finished rings. Being able to incorporate both Edoardo and Princess Beatrice’s characters into the design has resulted in a unique ring that represents their love and lives entwining’
- Shaun Leane
The platinum and diamond engagement ring is a fusion of Victorian and Art Deco designs and is accompanied by two additional matching bands in the distinctive Shaun Leane aesthetic. Crafted by hand in the Shaun Leane Mayfair atelier, it is set with excellent-cut diamonds of the highest colour and clarity, of which all are GIA certified and ethically sourced.
The ‘Contra Mundum’ diamond evening glove in 18ct white gold - created for Daphne Guinness in 2011 contains 70ct of diamonds. Aptly named 'Contra Mundum', meaning defiance against the world, it is a feat of technical mastery.
The white gold chain-mail glove, took over 1,000 grams of white gold, 5,000 pavé-set white diamonds and 17 goldsmiths, five years to make. Each link of chain-mail was hand soldered. It meant Leane having to question his traditional training; fashioning a glove from gold, to a couture silhouette, simply hadn’t been done before.
Fearlessness to push boundaries can leave one open to criticism. But Leane was propelled by the belief that visionary jewellery shouldn’t be restricted by its materials.
Diamond-set birds were designed to fly freely over the chain-mail, and up Daphne’s elbow. Leane’s signatures are all present here; melding masculine with the feminine; flora and fauna; jewellery as armour; and old-world romance.
Shaun Leane’s vibrant bejewelled Butterfly Brooch was exhibited exclusively as part of the ‘Cabinet of Curiosities’ for Nick Knight’s SHOWstudio in 2014 & later purchased by Damien Hirst.
In ancient literature, butterflies were winged messengers comparative to angels. They represent tenderness and brutality, strength and fragility; lit up, like magic, in Leane’s bejewelled creation, they are wearable objet d’art.
Fire Opal is a unique form of Opal found mainly in Mexico. Its undertones vary from pale yellow to deep red; diffracting light into different hues, they convey bright flashes of disguised colour.
Butterflies, too, are masters of camouflage and attraction; Leane’s opalescent wings, articulated with pavé-set black and white diamonds, evoke the arthropod flying in a pool of light. His unparalleled ability to combine exquisite goldsmithing with innovative design is seen in such meticulous details. He manages to capture texture; the contrast of lustre and luminosity.
Shaun is back in the judging seat, along with Dinny Hall and eight new contestants battling out for the title of Britain’s Next Jewellery Star.
The show first aired in April 2021 and Series 1 was a total success, with Hugo Luis Johnson winning the top prize. Comedian Katherine Ryan presented the show and the judges - Solange Azagury-Partridge and Shaun Leane decided who, was Jeweller of the Week and who, got sent home.
Series 2 aired from August 2022 for 6 weeks, and Piers Carpenter was crowned this year's winner on Sept 29th.
Shaun Leane’s creative direction took another unexpected turn when in 2014, he was commissioned to design gates, railings and balconies for a significant residential architectural project at 21 Young Street, London, in one of London’s most prestigious and storied old Georgian villages. Arbour is a spectacular 40 metre bronze façade, built seamlessly into the genteelness of Kensington Square.
Curated by Futurecity, from an Arts Advisory Panel which included Grainger, Assael Architecture, the Royal Borough of Kensington & Chelsea, Futurecity, the Victoria & Albert Museum and local residents, Shaun Leane’s hybrid architectural-art sculpture is one of the biggest commissions in the UK undertaken by a jewellery designer and Leane’s first foray into building design - his first ever public artwork.
Arbour is another example of Leane finding new freedom of expression, leading architecture and sculpture elegantly from the past, into the future. Arbour is part of the permanent collection, within 'metalwork' in the V&A , London.
“I believe that with creative freedom, innovation can truly flourish. It is when the magic happens. To be invited to create a piece of art such as this and for it to be protected for 125 years is truly an honour and testament to our future legacy.” - Shaun Leane
Shaun Leane won the Outstanding Contribution to the Industry at the UK Jewellery Awards 2021, an award which reflects his dedication to the industry and to passing on knowledge and experience to aspiring jewellers.
“I feel blessed that I was born with creativity, but it is the people I met along the way that nurtured me, with courage and conviction, that allowed me to flourish and evolve to be the designer and craftsman that I am today. For all of those who have joined me along this beautiful journey, I’m truly grateful you gave me the encouragement to create, provoke and inspire.” - Shaun Leane
In 2009, De Beers invited Shaun Leane to design a spectacular piece for their Forevermark Promise Exhibition. Diacore, the purveyors of the legendary 203.04ct Millennium Star and the Ponahalo Diamonds, would provide the gemstones.
Leane was looking for the perfect metaphor, one that tapped onto his own design leitmotif of flora. His vision; the first thick, white snow of winter. The inspiration came from the line “The sun and moon shed one white light” in Dylan Thomas’ poem ‘From Love’s First Fever to Her Plague’.
The result; Leane’s White Light Brooch, set with thirteen exquisite D-flawless pear-shaped Forevermark diamonds, forming a feathery cluster of frosty leaves, fruits and flowers; diamond-frosted icicles, snowy branches and spiky fauna, in opalescent hand-engraved enamel and pavé-set diamonds. Each apparition is set with a single pear-shaped white D-colour, internally flawless diamond; in total, over 2,477 diamonds feature, painstakingly handset, weighing a total of 40.68 carats.
White Light is museum-worthy objet d’art; taking eight months to complete, Leane’s designs pushed artisans to new levels of technical virtuosity.
Created for The World Land Trust in collaboration with Gemfields, 2010, Shaun Leane’s Majestic Grassland earrings in18ct white gold and 3.34 carat of emeralds, capture the essence of glistening blades of African grass; they resound with the echo of majestic creatures moving gracefully through the Sahara grasslands.
Flowing strands of pavé set white diamonds graduate into rich green Zambian emeralds, forming a beautiful pair of cheek-sweeping earrings. The majestic movement of elephants, was Leane’s vision for these earrings; like any great jewel, they possess a certain classical nobility.
Gemfields, one of the world’s leading coloured gemstone producers, provided Zambian emeralds to eight of the world’s most treasured designers, among them Theo Fennell, Dominic Jones and Gem Palace, to create the ‘Emeralds for Elephants’ collection
Crown of Thorns was remarkable in its delicacy and detail; without diminishing any of its impact on the runway. Made for Alexander McQueen’s 1996 show, 'Dante', Crown of Thorns became the focal point; in glistening silver, it was a statement of passion, decorum.
Leane, the Irish Catholic, was paying homage to his own religion through grace. His objective was a simple one; to make a beautiful body adornment. He recalls, “I just wanted to make jewellery that took people’s breath away."
Crown of Thorns later formed part of the permanent collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.
Robed in Alexander McQueen and photographed by Nick Knight Icelandic singer Bjork is wearing a Visionary neck piece designed by Shaun Leane.
In preparation for Jawbone, Leane studied two real human skeletal jaws - a male and a female. The result was this mouthpiece crafted from aluminium and fitted to his own jaw. The appearance suggests that the wearer’s skin and flesh has been stripped away, leaving the jawbone and front teeth exposed. Combining avant-garde with the practical, oversized hooks fasten around both ears like an anatomical instrument.
Jawbone was central to Alexander McQueen’s SS’98 show 'Untitled', the statement was a subversive one. McQueen played with Savile Row traditions, Leane spun in the surreal. It’s within the gaps that Leane thrives; the juxtaposition of flesh and metal; melding science with fantasy; contrasts of shade and light. The unseen is what is celebrated; our human skeletons as an inconceivable force.
Named after Shakespeare’s Sonnet XVIII - “thy eternal summer shall not fade…” - Leane, too, is in chase of the promise of eternal beauty.
These exquisite earrings featured in the Forevermark Promise Exhibition 2012, and resonate old-world romance whilst encapsulating something fresh, modern and forward-looking in the shape of 18ct Rose gold, white gold, 24.60ct D-colour flawless diamonds.
Interlocking Rings are designed to be stacked, aligning the points as you wish.
This ‘signature defiant point’ has become an iconic detail for the house, seen not only in this collection but in our Entwined love & commitment rings. This fine detail is dynamic and edgy, with a positive energy to it.
Playful, stylish, and an instant mood enhancer.
To celebrate the 30th anniversary of luxury beauty brand Clé de Peau, the House of Shaun Leane was invited to collaborate on the design of the compact for the new Luminizing Face Enhancer. Working with the finest of materials and an innovative approach to design resulted in a true collectible, celebrating both radiance & happiness.
Sabre Fine diamond earrings are powerful & present, with a controlled movement. They don't just enter, they own the room.
At 66mm, Sabre Fine Diamond earrings are the ultimate drops. This refined shape and form yields a remarkable diamond content, one that reflects high jewellery - a staggering 6.64ct.
An 8-part series commissioned to celebrate the centenary of the BBC, where British design aficionados were invited to celebrate art & design in the UK through the ages.
Shaun Leane found his way to Edinburgh, to explore how Mary, Queen of Scots promoted her brand through her exquisite jewellery. Shaun explores the Penicuik jewels and Cameo brooch she wore, amongst other pieces she commissioned that exhibited both fine gold scottish craftsmanship & french flair.
Our Entwined ring sets are celebrated for their ingenuity and impeccable craftsmanship. Each ring fits together seamlessly and is fashioned to perfection, representing the eternity of love and the unerring individuality of human commitment.
These are forever pieces, using precious materials with dazzling technical brilliance. Mark romantic milestones, in a unique and glorious array.
Thorned hand cuff, although bespoke, became popular amongst design aficionados. The late Karl Lagerfeld is one of four people in the world who owned a version.
Taking high jewellery into new territory, Thorned hand cuff is Shaun Leane’s sculptural space-age, galvanised glove. Made from black rhodium with sterling silver, it is formed to fit the client’s hand. The wearer opens a little door at the back, which clips and fastens - as if buttoning-up a driving glove.
Hand-forged “barked” vines frame each knuckle, with marbled lines of pavé diamond “thorns”, which contrast in colour, texture and detail.
In 2014, Shaun Leane exhibited at Nick Knight’s SHOWstudio. The Cabinet of Curiosities offered an unprecedented opportunity to delve into the psyche of the avant-garde jewellery house and debut nine highly imaginative bespoke creations. Each piece of jewellery was accompanied by an artwork, fashion piece or natural history specimen that has served as an inspiration to the house.
The show featured a finely crafted single diamond No. 1 earring; a vibrant fire opal-set butterfly brooch alongside an original Damien Hirst painting; an elaborate pair of feather hoop earrings with a Philip Treacy hat; and Aerial Wing Emerald earrings accompanied by a natural emerald bolder; an artwork by Korean light sculptor Ahn Chulhyun that inspired the Aurora ring, and an antique kimono from the archive of Daphne Guinness, paired with a set of statement cherry blossom cuffs.
Statement earrings is how we made our name, starting out on the Alexander McQueen catwalks of the 1990s. The No. 1 – that crucial line of fearlessness kick-started the house.
Silhouettes such as Sabre, Hook and Talon; knife-edge cuts bearing jaw-grazing, neck-skimming fearsome jewels define the look. Wear just one or stun with a pair.
The House of Shaun Leane is renowned for cool alternatives to hoops, drops & studs, with 360-degree execution, always.
The first ever commission in 1997, from the late formidable Isabella Blow – an anklet, 'like the ones worn by the Italian ladies of the night'.
The anklet was daring, with an edgy elegance, so perfectly formed to the alignment of her graceful ankle. Painstakingly considered and proportioned to accommodate her gait, it moved without harming or causing irritation.
For a sophisticated couture-clad lady, this was a bold piece. Refined & perfectly tailored.
The fluid contours and vibrant combinations of glowing stones are inspired by the natural effervescence of the aurora borealis.
Featuring a pear-shape, an oval and a round solitaire surrounded by vibrant rows of micro-set diamonds & gemstones, this set of three Aurora rings can be worn as one spectacular cocktail ring or as three separate pieces.
The interlocking mechanism took more than a year to develop in order to ensure that the set entwines seamlessly and creates a harmonious fusion of colour and form.
In 2012, Shaun Leane was appointed creative consultant to London heritage jeweller, Asprey.
Inspired by Turner’s great British painting ‘Snow Storm - Steam-Boat off a Harbour's Mouth’, the decadent Storm suite captures the elemental strength, drama and beauty of the storm. A complex vortex of diamonds and delicate gold wires that gracefully swirl from the wearer’s neck, ear or encircle the wrist. Accomplished & brilliant in equal parts.
Quintessentially British, the Woodland collection brings to life the flora and fauna of the English countryside. Shaun created a series of enchanting, whimsical charms, meticulously modelled in minute detail, in gold, enamel and gems – acorns, conkers, pine cones, mushrooms, strawberries, gooseberries, as well as diamond-set oak leaf earrings & rings, and a majestic suite of fern jewels, set throughout with emeralds.
An exciting bespoke commission showcasing the growing technical virtuosity of the House. This Beetle Lapel Brooch features hand crafted 'en tremblant' mounted beetles, on platinum, white gold and aluminium; set with sapphires, hand-carved tanzanite, hand-carved rock crystal and fine enamel.
Any colour as long as it's blue...
In 2006 Shaun Leane was invited to be part of the prestigious Swarovski Runway Rocks project, showcasing innovation & creativity within the industry. Fashion & jewellery designers were given free rein to create bold & exotic pieces, to adorn the body and push the boundaries between jewellery and dress, displaying the versatility, beauty & diversity of Swarovski crystals.
Playing with form, scale & materials, Shaun Leane created Belle a Lier, a captivating floral vine that twists and turns, elegantly enveloping the wearer. A symbol of strength & fragility.
Think earrings, think Shaun Leane.
The House undoubtedly makes exquisite earrings. From daring & refined drops to bold & energetic hoops, we have redefined the statement earring. The don't just enter the room, they own the room.
These deco style earrings were a bespoke commission, and an exciting opportunity to push the boundaries. Featuring two 10.50ct emeralds, framed with ombre-set blue sapphires, diamond pave, and splendid Tahitian pearls, these earrings are an exotic & vibrant mix of textures, colours & brilliance.
Shaun Leane has had a relationship with the V&A since the 2001 'Fashion in Motion' event in which his work was shown alongside Alexander McQueen. Today, Shaun Leane is the only designer to be on display across three of the gallery’s collections.
In jewellery, you will find the Entwined Vine Engagment Ring; in fashion - the Yasmak, designed in collaboration with Alexander McQueen for his S'S 2000 catwalk show; and in metalwork, there is Arbour, an elaborate bronze facade created for the prestigious architectural project ,21 Young Street in London. '
“As a young apprentice, I often visited the jewellery gallery at the V&A to be inspired by past masters and collected books as forms of reference and inspiration.” - Shaun Leane
Provocative, daring & refined is how we describe our jewellery. It is no surprise that the multi-talented Lady Gaga, renowned for reinventions as much as her musical versatility, is a long-term fan & avid collector.
Defiant, bold & incredibly stylish, she embodies the House aesthetic and is the proud owner of some superb pieces; the Condra Mundum diamond glove, the Silver Halo & the Spine Corset.
Designed to compliment rather than overpower the contours of the face, the Orchid Earrings appear as if growing around the ear of the wearer.
At 8ct, these are bejewelled statement pieces.
A fine micro-pavé setting transitions from white diamonds (1.08ct) through to vivid green tsavorite stems (2.05ct) up to a magnificent single 0.87ct tsavorite “in bloom”. Hand-painted kilned enamel petals echo those found on Art Nouveau masterpieces, staying in line with Leane’s continued fascination with historical design.
"Lee asked me to design two brooches – one for him and the other for Sarah Jessica Parker, who accompanied him to the Met Gala Anglomania 2006, dressed head to toe in McQueen clan tartan. He wanted a traditional plaid brooch with a Celtic feel. I used the Scottish thistle emblem as my primary reference, the lustrous pearls gripped by sharp thorns, encased and surrounded by flowing leaf forms which were both beautiful and savage at the same time. I hand delivered them to New York where I was to join them for the gala. Lee said they were perfect.’ - Shaun Leane
Made from dark oxidized silver, leaves are adorned with pavé-set black spinel, four grade AAA, dark grey Tahitian pearls enclosed in talon-like claws.
In 2019, Shaun Leane’s 'Pheasant Claw' earrings were part of Exhibitionism: 50 Years of The Museum at FIT, celebrating the 50th anniversary of “the fashion insider’s fashion museum.”
Founded in 1969 as the Design Laboratory and Galleries at FIT, The Museum at FIT is a specialized fashion museum best known for its innovative and award-winning exhibitions. Whether monographic, chronological, or thematic, MFIT’s exhibitions contextualize fashion and underscore its connections to history, culture, and society.
MFIT’s collection consists of more than 50,000 garments and accessories from the eighteenth century to the present. The museum’s mission is to educate and inspire diverse audiences with innovative exhibitions and programs that advance knowledge of fashion.
In 2019, to support the launch of Pat McGrath Make Up at Selfridges, Shaun Leane was amongst a tight roster of creatives invited to create a star piece to exhibit in the Corner Shop. The Statement Quill choker in gold was born.
The perception of such a piece is so different to the actual reality. The Quill Choker appears menacing and sharp, but in fact it is in total sync with the wearer. The proportions and linkage between the individual Quills is not only considered but articulated, so they glide, capturing the light and illuminating the wearer.
The Quill silhouette beautifully illustrates the journey of the House – where we have come from, to where we are now. Still relevant, and true to our DNA. Provocative, Daring & Refined.
When McQueen and Leane met, both 22 years old, it was the joining of two souls. Talented and creative, they had both found a voice and a sense of empowerment in their creative fields.
McQueen made Leane realise that the only tools that really mattered were his hands and his vision. Working on his catwalk shows with no commercial constraints and no creative boundaries, Leane had the platform and the means to achieve pure creative freedom.
Brave, talented and uncompromising in their vision, together, these two craftsmen armed with incredible skill, a respect for heritage and the courage to disrupt it, were creating work that the world had never seen before.
Leane was working on six shows a year, two for McQueen’s own line and four for Givenchy (while McQueen was Creative Director); a demanding schedule that continued until 2001 when McQueen left the French couture house. Leane continued to work with McQueen on his own shows until 2008.
Five things Shaun Leane learned from Lee Alexander McQueen:
Break the Mold
Be Fearless
Push Boundaries
Ask Questions
Embrace Fantasy
In December 2017, Sotheby’s New York, hosted an auction of Couture Fashion Jewellery: The Personal Archive of Shaun Leane. The auction totalled $2.6 million, outshining the sale’s high estimate of $2 million.
The team at Sothebys’ declared the work of Shaun Leane as ‘collectible antiques to become heirlooms of the future’
The dedicated auction of over 40 works offered collectors and enthusiasts a unique opportunity to acquire pieces of fashion history. Included were pieces such as the Coiled Corset, the Contra Mundum Diamond Evening Glove and the Jawbone, which had been previously exhibited at The Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Victoria & Albert Museum’s blockbuster retrospective Savage Beauty in 2011 and 2015, respectively.
“These impressive, unique showpieces are truly iconic, and deserved to reach these record results. They will join both private and institutional collections who will appreciate, preserve and display them for generations to come. Bidders competed tonight to own an important part of 20th and 21st century fashion history, with top prices achieved for runway pieces made from base metals – proving that the value in those works was for their superb design, rather than for fine materials.” - Kerry Taylor, Head of Sale, in collaboration with Sotheby’s.
For Shaun Leane, the success is knowing that 20 years after their creation, these visionary pieces still had the power to move people, and now they will go forward in the hands of public and private collectors, and continue to inspire & provoke.
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