Our inspirations from week four of the New BBC2 show ‘All that glitters’.
In the final episode of the season, working with 18ct gold the remaining contestants had to create a pair of stand-out drop earrings, followed by their own version of a Maang Tikka – a traditional Indian bridal headpiece.
June 17th, 2022
Iconic Silhouettes: Part 4
Welcome to Iconic Silhouettes, a celebration of our innovative design handwriting and refined craftsmanship.
Serpent's Trace Wide Bracelet
#13 - Serpent's Trace
Serpent’s Trace is a true celebration of nature and the expression of renewal. When we think of the snake, we think movement - Muscular, Tactile and Hypnotic. The Serpent’s Trace captures this unmistakable beauty in each articulated link. Silver vertebrae slide like silk over the skin, each link precisely shaped and integrated with the next.
For hundreds of years jewellers have been mesmerised by the serpent. They have jewelled their skin, placed rubies in their eyes and celebrated their curvaceous generous form in many ways. At Shaun Leane the interpretation is not as literal, we look at the Serpent deep within.
That complex bone structure that lies underneath is what intrigues us – the mathematical genius of nature. Serpent’s Trace is about fluidity, the grace and strength of the serpent's body - the hypnotic movement. Our silver vertebrae embrace the body and coil seductively on the skin.
Serpent’s Trace is a technical feat in engineering. It has taken several years to create the silver vertebrae – these perfectly shaped skeletal links are connected and trace the contours of the wrist, mimicking the hypnotic movement of the Serpent. The Serpent's Trace is a fascinating example of unique design, accomplished craftsmanship and a deep adoration for the natural world.
Edgy, playful and supple – rings trace round and stack on the finger while chokers beckon from the neck. A beguiling diamond-pavé snake’s head takes centre stage - dropping elegantly from the ear lobe, or in a dramatic coiled hoop to greet an admirer. The collection has evolved into high jewellery where 18ct white gold vertebrae are pave-set with diamonds, and graduated to a tip.
Serpent's Trace Wrap Ring
#14 - Cherry Blossom
Reimagine springtime in Japan, with Cherry Blossom, our treasured collection of freshwater pearls, diamonds and fine enamel flowers in silver and gold vermeil. Abundant, delicate and flourishing, it is a reminder from the natural world, of how important it is to be in the present, to capture that moment.
Delicate enamel plays with precious silver and rose gold vermeil to create softer motifs to reflect the balance of nature. Well versed in the expert technique of enamelling, it was the perfect material to create these softer organic shapes, showcasing tradition but in a modern way.
Cherry Blossom is underpinned by a strong branch. Bulbous, fluid and organic, and softened by just the right amount of blossoms, scintillated in diamonds.
Cherry Blossom on the Catwalk
Cherry Blossom on the Catwalk
Cherry Blossom on the Catwalk
Cherry Blossom Hoop Earrings
The silhouette celebrates the naked tree as much as the blossoms, showcasing its shape and size, how it might look in Winter, when it is preparing for the blossoming season ahead.
Cherry Blossom allows us to see the protective structure of the branch, how it holds the blossoms and is complemented by the flowers.
Our Cherry Blossom collection captures that specific beauty in precious silver and gold vermeil where sculptural shapes, lustrous pearls, fine enamels and brilliant-cut diamonds come together in exquisite creations, and a promise of unending joy.
#15 - Rose Thorn
The Rose Thorn collection is about the strength and force of nature. A menacing thorn on a vine protects the rose from it's predators, and long after the roses fade, that vine will continue to grow. Producing more & more thorns. We see the wonderful protective quality of the Rose plant and how wilful nature is. It just carries on.
Rose Thorn Triple Ring
Alexander McQueen's ‘Dante Show’ A/W1996. McQueen clad models wore sterling silver rose thorns on their faces.
Alexander McQueen's ‘Dante Show’ A/W1996. McQueen clad model wore an Arm and Neck Vine.
Alexander McQueen's ‘Dante Show’ A/W1996. McQueen clad model wore the 'Crown Of Thorns.
The Rose Thorn motif was born out of collaborative work with Alexander McQueen, on the ‘Dante Show’ A/W1996. McQueen clad models wore sterling silver rose thorns on their faces as they graced the catwalk. Exquisitely executed fine jewellery pieces.
This scene echoed a shared childhood memory for both Shaun & Lee, where they would playfully stick real thorns on their faces as kids. The thorns gave them a sense of identity, and danger. These pointed little protrusions offered them protection, in much the same way as the rose.
The natural thorn on a rose stem is visually deceptive – it appears at first to be bulky & broad, and fools those who cannot see the pointed sharp tip to it.
Recreated in precious metal, it is an ultra-refined silhouette, graduated and undulated, incredibly complex to create & perfect. As a motif it is a graceful armour, celebrating the strength of nature.
The silhouette depicts thorns along the robust vine, leaving the fragrant rose just out of sight and to the imagination. It depicts the strength beneath the flower. The undervalued menacing thorn now becomes the focus, celebrated for its fluidity and bulbous pointed beauty.
Rose Thorn Collection
Olly Alexander wearing our Rose Thorn Cuff
The Rose Thorn collection has evolved over years, from the Rose Thorn ear studs to bracelets, pendants, hoops and statement cuffs, with more pieces added this year.
It’s organic and fluid, with Silver, Rose Gold Vermeil and Silver Black Rhodium thorn laden vines dressing the skin, like a layer of protection against the elements.
Private commissions have include the Arm Vine, a wonderfully imaginative piece that dresses the upper arm, drawing attention to the face.