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May 18th, 2021

Our inspirations from week four of the New BBC2 show ‘All that glitters’.

In the final episode of the season, working with 18ct gold the remaining contestants had to create a pair of stand-out drop earrings, followed by their own version of a Maang Tikka – a traditional Indian bridal headpiece.
February 20th, 2023

Line

Line, a major theme for the House, explores the sculptural shape of a line and all its curves.

There is an undeniable energy to Leane’s lines – with their graduated curves and tapered points, some more abrupt than others.

Intended as a counterbalance to Flora & Fauna, Line’s reductive approach explores the very building blocks of nature by utilising symmetry to convey balance, order and strength. This bold approach to form eschews extraneous detail and directs focus onto the beauty of natural materials.

Leane explored working with lines in earlier Alexander McQueen Catwalk shows. There was the famous Coiled Corset, made from aluminium, created for The Overlook - AW99, followed by the Grille Collar, created for La Dame Bleue – SS’08, also in aluminium. He explored the graceful strength of many lines, versus the fragility of just one.

The enduring presence of Leane’s sharp and sweeping lines across artistic mediums has come to define his work with a sense of unyielding energy. Taking the form of jewellery, it intensifies the wearer’s inner strength and performs a powerful, armour-like function.


The No. 1

The No. 1 earring is where the House began - the very first piece of jewellery created for Shaun Leane collections back in 1998. Designed to be worn single, it has an independent streak & punk attitude.
The generous curvilinear shape, the graduated length, together with the roundedness, yields a look of simplicity that in reality, is superbly complex to achieve.
We call it the crucial graceful curve of fearlessness. Elegant in its movement, daring & provocative in design, the No. 1 makes a single powerful statement.

Hook

The Hook silhouette features a strong line with a gentle tapered curve, culminating in a sharp point.
Hook excels in the presence of a knife-edge*, which adds a preciseness; a sharpness to the silhouette - creating facets & shadows on the polished surface. This knife-edge also adds another line, that refines the overall look.

 The silhouette invites intrigue and caution with its beauty, most evident in the Hook earring. Dressing the beautiful yet vulnerable neck, the line is angled & tapered, with a protective quality to it.

*Knife edge is an ancient technique that Shaun learned about in the early days of his apprenticeship, when restoring antique pieces, from Victorian to Art Deco.


The Grille Collar

Leane explored working with lines in earlier Alexander McQueen Catwalk shows. The famous Grille Collar was created for La Dame Bleue – SS’08, and made in aluminium.

Grille Collar is Shaun Leane the artist - in the abstract. Grille Collar creates the sense of an optical illusion. A metal grille, comprised of 15 aluminium tubes, forming a visor-like linear structure, it appears as if suspended above the body.

Leane’s symphony of symmetrical lines echo the severity of McQueen’s sharp shoulders, and fine-boned corsetry; but hover above, never touching flesh nor fabric. Instead, the metal frame envelopes the torso, seamlessly becoming part of the garment. 


Armis

In Armis, the repetition of a line creates a waterfall of fine white gold and diamond light. These complex structures reflect our strength & tenacity, our multi-faceted personalities and the multiplicity of roles we take on today.

In Armis we see the strength in numbers, not just volume, with so many lines coming together to create these architectural forms. They are symbolic – one line alone is isolated and fragile, but multiple lines signal strength and protection.

There is a dazzling fluidity and movement to Armis, owing to these layered lines. Between the shimmer and shadow, the way the light bounces and plays with the gold and diamonds is mesmerizing.


Sabre

The Sabre silhouette shows the beauty and simplicity of form. A sharp clean directional silhouette inspired by a line, with an undeniable strength of presence. Daring & provocative.

Sabre evolved from the original No. 1 silhouette. With a more refined sharpness, Sabre is straighter, less rounded, and features the knife edge which adds a beautiful polished faceted surface.

 


Sabre Fine

Our Sabre Fine earrings capture the light with the movement of the wearer. Dynamic & dramatic, they frame but never overpower.

The WOW factor, all 6.64 carat of it, arises from the double row of graduated diamonds from top to tip, on both sides of the central knife edge, creating beautifully framed facets.

The 66mm length makes quite the impact.


Sabre Deco

Sabre Deco perfectly demonstrates the evolution of the house silhouette Sabre. Taking the intriguing line of Sabre and playing with it - making it swirl and curl, Sabre Deco feels energised & happy, expressing movement in rich colours and shapes.
With a presence and energy all of its own, Sabre Deco is a fusion of form and materials is an edgy and rich interplay of light and dark proportion, movement and silhouette.
Sleek & mysterious, a fine black ceramic is perfectly framed by a gold knife edge, before orbiting the distinctive & powerful gold Sabre.

 


Isabella Blow's Anklet

Quill was born out of the first ever commission in 1997, by the late formidable Isabella Blow – who requested an anklet, like the ones worn by the Italian ladies of the night.
Daring, with an edgy elegance, it was perfectly aligned to her graceful ankle, and proportioned to accommodate her gait.
This was a bold piece, tailored to perfection.

 


Quill

The Quill silhouette beautifully illustrates the journey of the House – where we started out to where we are now. The double-pointed Quill is an elegant yet dangerous curve, and one of Leane’s signatures. Still relevant, and true to our DNA - provocative, daring & refined.
The Quill silhouette is ergonomically shaped to undulate & curve, lending itself to the contours of the human form. The purpose was not only to dress the skin but to move with the body.
Each individual Quill is ‘tailored’ – in length and undulation, to sit next to and work with the adjacent piece. The proportions and linkage between the individual Quills is not only considered but articulated, so these ‘lines’ glide, capturing the light as they go.
 

Quill Couture

Leane’s Quill Couture Earrings combine the highest level of artistry and originality with the flamboyance of couture. Leane uses palladium, a rarity for high jewellery, effecting a sleek polish, more reflective than platinum. Over 1,000 brilliant cut white diamonds (56 carat) are micro pavé-set into a 360 degree facade, seen from all angles.
The Quill Couture Earringstechnical virtuosity highlights the mastery of the artist’s craft. The porcupine-inspired Quill silhouette is a celebration of Line; dramatic spikes, androgynous cuts, with a modern sensibility.

Hooked Pearl

Hooked Pearl is about precious metal organic forms, and how they protects the fragile beautiful pearl. The silhouette of the ring resembles a precious metal cage – through which you can admire and view the pearl – but you cannot reach it.

Rounded wire, shaped, graduated and arc’ed to a rounded point, is Leane exploring Line and making it feel organic. This was a chance to break with tradition & change the perception of how pearls were seen. They were rarely on their own, suspended, floating or embellished with precious metal. The encasing resembles a layer of protection, concealing something precious, that you can see, but you cannot touch.

These refined pointed forms create an intimate space for the pearl to luxuriate in. A precious ensnaring, where the Pearl is the centre of attention - peeping out.

The organic shapes of precious metal, little structures protecting and framing this lustrous pearl feels light & encased, hard & soft, protective yet open. Above all, it feels natural.

Arc

Arc is sculptural and architectural, appealing to a fluid sensibility. The silhouette is about tactility and wearability. It’s ergonomic shape, a voluminous line with an abrupt slightly tapered point, suggests momentum.

Arc was born out of the desire to create an everyday bangle. One that felt like an old friend, a piece you didn't have to style. Generous proportions deliver weight, and a clean minimalist design that just works.

The manner in which it graduates, in a somewhat hurried fashion, a precise perfect point that still retains the volume – is unmistakably Shaun Leane.

The addition of the knife edge detailing elevates the Arc profile and gives it a distinctiveness, taking it from being a classic robust form to be a more design lead avant-garde piece.

 


Prowess Sapphire Ring

The Prowess Sapphire Ring’s contemporary setting and exotic beauty is held in a balance by a sleek, architectural design. Think, Leane’s distinct fearlessness with couture elegance. Leane uses jewellery to signal our taste for change, with a high-contrast of hybrid materials; his choice of platinum gives the Prowess Sapphire Ring a polished, technological feel.

The clean, fluid silhouette of the Prowess Sapphire Ring diffuses opulent colour and sharp lines; reminiscent of Art Deco designs of the 1920s and 30s. The ring’s wow factor is it’s glittering sea-blue jewel, evoking talismanic properties, a source of protection when worn.

Crafted from platinum and pavé set with more than 170 royal blue sapphires, the Prowess Sapphire Ring exquisite centrepiece is a magnificent 10.53 carat sapphire of striking size and beauty. Leane’s meticulous placement of the central sapphire is just so that its many facets capture and disperse light from all angles.


Interlocking

Interlocking is about unity. Symbolic of a bond, the coming together and fitting as one stronger together while remaining an individual. A band like no other, designed to be interlocked with others, celebrating love & friendship.
The Interlocking ring features a fine Sabre silhouette, a line with a precise tapered point, finishing in a sweep. Standing out provocatively – it shows defiance and strength, giving this ring a strong personality.
This ‘signature defiant point’ has become an iconic detail for the house, seen not only in this collection but in others. This fine detail is dynamic and edgy, signalling a positive energy.
The refined line of Interlocking wraps the finger like a layer of protection, with its cautionary ‘edge’ beckoning & repelling at the same time. Designed to be stacked, one fine line upon another

1/5
Solitaire ring — 2009 — Gold, 7ct cognac diamond, black diamonds
Poison ring — 2005 — White gold, diamonds
Luna ring — 2009 — White gold, rubies, carved rhodolite
Tribal deco ring — 2008 — White gold, black diamonds, white diamonds, tsavorites, cabochon hematite & quartz
Tusk ring — 2019 — Gold, black diamonds, ceramic